I Think the Clouds Are More Purple Than Blue
January 21, 2010
I should be reading Technopoly right now. But I’m at a computer in the library flipping through flickr photos and listening to hail on the window. It’s raining so hard, I can hardly see out. Run, Lady With Blue Shirt, run! You ought to have brought your umbrella if you were so determined to straighten your pretty hair.
Bah. BAH!!
January 21, 2010
Sadly, my camera froze to death. I might have to start drawing illustrations instead. Maybe it’ll be good practice.
Hide on Hiatus
January 8, 2010
Honey, Let’s Play Hookey ‘Cause It Snowed Last Night…
January 7, 2010
…and tonight, and tomorrow night, and Friday….
Bah. Bah humbug. I’m supposed to be on the road right now. But due to a few circumstances and forces of nature, I’m here until Saturday. Don’t get me wrong – being at home is not a bad thing. Not to me. But I hate breaking momentum when it comes to road tripping. It took me a whole five hours to convince myself it was okay. The next two days are going to be fantastically productive, though. They need to be. I’m ticked. So ticked I might clean.
I only clean when I’m in a fantastically good mood or a fantastically bad one.
On the bright side (glower), I can finish tanning the deer hide from the relative comfort of my basement. Here’s the update:

After one day of Murphys: the oil/fat is still floating to the surface. I keep scraping it off and applying more Murphy's.

The fur is so beautiful. I'm so sad I've been soaking it. I should have stretched the whole pelt. The fur's not weak enough from the epson salts to scrape off yet, but I'll try again tomorrow (2.5 days). *Sniff*

My trusty workspace, freshly mopped. Note the retro kerosene heater. It's toasty. Where're my marshmallows... Actually, it melted a heavy-duty plastic tub. Is that not slightly scary? It was very twisty afterwards and I had fun playing with it.
Morgan (dog) got into the basement and tasted some Murphy’s and deer fat. We’re monitering her for ill-effects, but she’s okay so far.
Stupid dog. Good thing she’s so cute…
J/K Morgan. You’re smart.
25 Bottles of Rootbeer on the Wall
January 5, 2010
It is, after all, my elixer of motivation.
The past week or so has been rough, folks. On the bright side, I’ve knit a hat and begun the tanning process on a deer hide. I’ve also finished season one of Lost. Gooood show.
Yet for some reason I feel like I’ve accomplished nothing. I think it’s the black hole syndrome – when you’re half-conscious, you don’t realize you’re doing anything at all. Hmmm. It’s back to school soon, though, so I’ve got to pull myself together.
In the meantime: Tanning From the Home (and Heart!)
Honestly, I don’t know if I should even hope for a smidgeon of decent leather from this enterprise. There are a million virtual recipes online and very few chemical breakdowns (i.e. This-Is-What-Happens-At-A-Chemical-Level-During-This-Process-So-You-Can-Find-Your-Own-Materials-Instead kind of articles). Thankfully, through a combing of blogs and Lowe’s employees, I’ve pieced together my own Process.
STEP 1. Find someone with a dead deer and a big knife. Procure that already-detached hide.
STEP 2. Flesh the hide. This involves scraping/cutting all the membrane, tissue, fat, muscle, misc. off the hide. the actual hide is the SAME COLOR AS THE FAT. It’s just a little (little tiny!!) bit dryer. The fat must come off. The skin must stay put. Experiment on a little side piece until you’re sure you know the difference. Also, youtube.com really comes in handy. Also, also…do this with the hide draped over something round like a pvc pipe or a log. I did not discover this trick until the very end. If I had earlier, the process would have probably only taken two hours as opposed to six. DO NOT SALT/DRY OUT THE HIDE BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS! You will be dealing with stubborn jerky. I learned this also from youtube.
STEP 3. Brine that sucker. This can mean either (a) packing it with common NaCl (non-iodized) salt and letting it sit in a freezer/other cold environment for about a month or (b) soaking it in a nearly saturated salt solution (salt+water). “Nearly saturated” means the salt ratio is so high that there are more salt molecules than the water molecules can deal with. Think Great Salt Lakes salt slushy. This step sucks the moisture out of the hide so that the salt can bind with the moisture, get sucked back in, and preserve it. After this step, if done properly, a person can dry out the hide and store it for a bit before actually tanning it.
STEP 4. (OPTIONAL!!!) De-fur that sucker with something high-alkaline. I’ve read to use a diluted lime+hardwood ashes solution, then a diluted vinegar solution to stop the alkaline action. Lowe’s guy told me that epson salts work just as well. Soak the hide until the hairs are easily scraped off, scrape ‘em off, then rinse the hide well. Native Americans just weighted down the hide in a fast-moving stream and let the water do all the work. Hmph.
I wish I could find a fast-moving stream.
STEP 5. Tan it! This process involves removing all the fats/oils that will corrode and replacing them with new oils that will preserve the hide. There are all sorts of recipes for this involving alum, etc., and sites recommending that you buy a solution professionally made. The best I know of is the brain technique, which uses parts of the deer that would otherwise be scrapped. The details are thick in the blogsphere, and I won’t go over it because I’m not sure I’d get it all right. Stale pee is also acceptable (somehow).
As for me – I’m using Murphy’s Soap-Oil. I’ll let you know how that goes. All I know now is that it’s taking out the fats all right. It takes out the fats and mixes to form this foamy slime that hangs in ropes. YUMMY.
Half I’m keeping the fur on, half off. I need leather for my muckaluck commissions (knitted boots).
Hopefully the fur part will be tanned by tomorrow night, because I’m planning on taking the other hairless part back to AR with me in my hatchback, slathered in Murphy’s, well-sealed in a tub. I just don’t feel like dealing with two tanning hides on my trip back.
Wool-Ease/Acrylic-Sleaze….BAH.
December 29, 2009
Lion Brand Yarn: Wool-Ease, Thick and Quick. You promised me nothing you didn’t deliver. Wool-acrylic blend. Without even bothering to seek out the ratio, I snatched you off the Hancock shelves… but I ought to have known better.
However, I feel as though all my yarn store snobbery has been officially justified.
86% acrylic. 10% wool. 4% rayon.
Never have lamb fleeces been so pointlessly incorporated.
Why even bother listing wool as an ingredient? I suppose my first clue should have been the advert: “machine washable and dryable!” Seriously…Wool-Ease. No shame.
Again, I only blame myself for this pointless foray into the world of dye and acrylic. Never again will I assume that a product has enough wool to hold color merely because that’s what it is named.
Mysteries of the ‘Verse
December 24, 2009
Dying ceramics somehow seperates the pigments.

I used the standard egg-dying process: 2 Tbs. vinegar, 3/4 cup hot water, 2 tsp. food coloring (per jar).

The violet batch. Some red clay was present, and it soaked up all the red pigment, leaving a true blue on the rest. In a few days, the ceramics absorbed it more fully and the pigments faded from the surface a little.
But the question remains:
Why did they seperate in the first place?
Dead Week Kick-Off
December 7, 2009
It’s that time again, folks. Deadweek. The week of test preparations.
Or, if you’re an art student, the week of project deadlines.
If you’re an independent study art student, it’s the week to evaluate how little you’ve accomplished in proportion to your overblown self-expectations.
So this weekend I took a minor road trip to visit Kurt in Oklahoma. It was a belated birthday celebration of sorts involving chess, Mexican food, and Saturday Night Live. Also Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy. I also brought a blank canvas and my oil paints so I could make him a belated birthday present. So I sat him down in a nice, comfy papazan chair, converted the kitchen trashcan into a makeshift easel, plugged in Afro Samurai, and spent an intense two hours of alla prima oil painting (where you paint everything in one sitting, start to finish).

Yes indeed. Afro Samurai himself, voiced by Samuel L. Jackson. More pressurized blood and deadly stuffed animals than you can shake a stick at. Or a paintbrush, for that better. But fantastically done from an artistic standpoint.
I think my style was slightly influenced. But it might be all in my head.
Just before I hit the road to get there Friday night, we (ceramics class) completed another raku firing. Nothing happened this time…no accidents…no close calls, even. I need to get my adrenaline fix elsewhere, because we’re just getting too good.

At least the holes in the gloves give some sort of excitement. I can remove things until the gloves begin to smoke. The catch is stopping before the flames start.
Here are a few interesting tidbits about raku for those who have little know-how:
(i.e. things I’ve learned in the past month)…
1. Tongs can be used as a stable extension of the kiln handle, so the opener’s arm hair can remain intact.
2. Raku firings need a special team of three: an opener (for the kiln lid), a remover (operating tongs), and a guy-who-throws-on-sawdust-and-shoves-bucket-overtop-and-down-into-the-sand.
3. Just because the glaze doesn’t say “raku” doesn’t mean you can’t try it…if there are metal oxides, it can be reduced.
4. Bandannas keep hair alive and intact.
5. It really is better to do it outside, if at all possible. Some funky fumes happen.
6. All that junk on there afterwards…you can scrub that off.
The buttons on the top row are the “Shake It And Scream” technique taught to me by a good friend. Rapidly cooling the glaze forms major cracks, and smoking it immediately after forces carbon down into the cracks, outlining a spiderweb pattern of black.
The bottom row is the “Reduction” technique, where you place the buttons on the combustibles and seal it as soon as possible, forcing the heat to eat all the oxygen in the air and turn to the glaze, ripping out those oxygens through a chemical process, turning the metal oxides back to their pure metal form. The longer the glaze is exposed to the air, the more the color and less the metallic effect. Any exposed bisque is smoked black.
Also, I tried to burn off strategic areas of carbon off a different pot I had previously smoked (harharhar…yeah…I know…get over it). At first, I figured kerosine and rags would do the trick.

It was buried in the sand to keep the outer shell's temperature cool to keep its carbon on. I didn't need to worry though, because a little fire like this didn't burn hot enough or long enough to make much of a difference.
So…plan #2: de-smoking with a blow-torch.

Despite my efforts to keep the torch moving and the heat consistent, the pot still cracked. It's okay, though, because they fit the piece. Once I figure out how to effectively light and photograph black objects, I'll post a good pic, because it worked in the end. The inside's white, fading to black as it approaches the opening.
Finally, since the pot was still warm from the blow-torch, I waxed the burnished surface. Waxing on a cold surface can produce a white residue after about a week; it’s important to melt it into the surface. Even in his treatises on fresco, Alberti recommends heating a waxed surface. Story old as time, song old as rhyme.










































